Two Lakes That Will Change How You Think About Central Asia

Most travelers come to Kazakhstan expecting steppe — flat, brown, and endless. What they find at Kolsay Lakes and Kaiyndy Lake stops them cold. Deep green water. Tien Shan spruce forests. Mountains that push above 4,000 meters. And almost no one else.

These two destinations sit about 4 hours south-east of Almaty, in Kolsay Lakes National Park, and they are among the most spectacular natural sites in all of Central Asia. If you are traveling to Kazakhstan and you can do only one day trip outside the city — make it this one.

Kolsay Lakes: What You Need to Know

The Kolsay Lakes are a chain of three alpine lakes stacked at increasing altitudes inside a forested valley in the Northern Tien Shan mountain range. The Kazakh word "Kolsai" roughly translates to "lake in a gorge" — which is exactly what you get.

• Lower Kolsay Lake (1st lake) — Altitude: 1,818m. The most accessible. A 1-hour easy walk from the parking area. Great for families and casual hikers. Yurt camps and horse rentals at the lake edge.
• Middle Kolsay Lake (2nd lake) — Altitude: 2,252m. A 3–4 hour moderate hike from the lower lake. Fewer crowds, more dramatic scenery. This is where most serious hikers aim.
• Upper Kolsay Lake (3rd lake) — Altitude: 2,850m. A full-day trek from the second lake. Near the Kyrgyzstan border. Very few visitors reach this one — those who do rarely forget it.

The water color changes through the day — deep emerald in the morning, vivid blue-green at midday, silver at dusk. The forest is Tien Shan spruce, a species that grows only in this region. In late spring the meadows fill with wildflowers. In autumn the larches turn gold. There is no bad season to visit.

Kaiyndy Lake: The Submerged Forest You Have to See

Kaiyndy Lake (also spelled Kaindy) is one of the most unusual natural sights in Kazakhstan — and arguably in the world. In 1911, a massive earthquake triggered a landslide that dammed a narrow mountain valley. The valley flooded. The birch trees that had been growing there were submerged alive. More than a century later, their white trunks still stand in the water, stripped bare by the cold, stretching above the surface like ghosts in a turquoise mirror.

The lake is small — about 400 meters long — and surprisingly cold (the water temperature stays around 6°C even in summer). But you are not here to swim. You are here to stand at the shore and stare at something that looks like it belongs in a painting.

Kaiyndy is located about 30 minutes by car from the Kolsay Lakes parking area. Almost every tour that visits Kolsay includes a stop at Kaiyndy — and it is absolutely worth combining both in a single day trip.

Getting There from Almaty

The Kolsay Lakes are located approximately 330 km from Almaty — about a 4–4.5 hour drive along the A351 highway toward Saty village. The road is paved for most of the route; the last stretch into the park is dirt and gravel (passable in a standard car, but an SUV is more comfortable).

Your best options:

• Guided tour from Almaty (recommended): 1Travel offers group day tours and private transfers to Kolsay + Kaiyndy. You leave early, arrive when the light is best, and have a driver who knows the road. No logistics stress.
• Rent a car: An international driving license is required. The drive is straightforward on Google Maps. Fuel up in Almaty — there are very few stations on the route.
• Shared marshrutka: Minibuses run from Sayakhat bus station in Almaty to Saty village. Cheap but slow, and you will still need transport from Saty to the lake entrance (horse or shared jeep).

Entry fee: 500 KZT per person (about $1) for the national park. Cash only at the gate.

Best Time to Visit Kolsay Lakes

The lakes are accessible from late May through October. Here is what each season looks like:

• June & July: Peak season. The meadows are green, wildflowers are blooming, trails are clear. Expect the most visitors (still far fewer than European parks).
• August: Slightly drier, great visibility, warm afternoons. Excellent for photography.
• September & October: Arguably the best time. Autumn color in the larches and aspens, cool air, almost no crowds. The light is golden all day.
• November–April: The park is technically closed. Snow can be deep. Not recommended for casual tourists.

What to Bring

Even on a warm Almaty day, the temperature at the lakes can drop sharply in the afternoon. Pack: a waterproof jacket, layered clothing, sturdy walking shoes (trail runners or light hiking boots), at least 2 liters of water per person, sunscreen, and a power bank. There is no mobile signal inside the park — download offline maps of the area in Google Maps or Maps.me before you leave Almaty.

There are basic yurt camps at the lower lake offering meals and overnight stays. If you want to spend the night, book in advance through your tour operator or by calling directly — capacity is limited and fills up on summer weekends.